This assembly guide is applicable for both Small and Medium versions of the safety enclosure. Assembly time is 1 to 2 hours.


What's in the box


  1. Aluminum T-Slots - 5pcs Long(Black), 12 pcs Short(Black), 1 pc(Silver)
  2. Polycarbonate Panels - 5 pcs smoke gray, 1pc clear
  3. Foam Tape - 1pc Large roll, 1 pc Small roll 
  4. Plastic Footing 4pcs, Footing Screws 8pcs
  5. Allen Wrench 2pcs
  6. 3 Way Corner Brackets 8pcs (with lock screws)
  7. 2 Way Corner Brackets 10pcs
  8. 5mm screws
  9. T-Slot Hammer Nuts
  10. T Brackets 2pcs
  11. Basic Temperature Meter
  12. Fan Cover with screws
  13. Door Hardware - Metal Door Handle, Magnetic Latch, Spacer with Tape, Left and Right detachable hinge




STEP 1: Prepare 3-way brackets.


Insert the locking screws that come with the 3-Way brackets using the smaller Allen wrench. Each bracket has 4 locking screws. Insert them half way through and avoid having the screw go past the opposite side.


All brackets should look like this.





STEP 2: Apply Tape to the edges of the Polycarbonate panels.


Use the larger foam tape roll to cover the edges of the panels. This prevents the panels from rattling and helps with sealing to minimize air leaks.


Remove the panel's protective backing. Once removed the panels can be easily scratched, keep them away from the aluminum T-slots and other metal hardware.




Unwind the tape and remove the backing. While holding the panel upright start from one corner and center the tape with your fingers, give the tape a slight stretch while moving to the next corner. Once the tape is laid to the next corner pinch the tape so it sticks to the panel.




Go around the panel moving from one corner to the other, pinching the tape down to prevent it from unwrapping. Make sure to give it a slight stretch.


Once all the edges are covered cut the tape without overlapping the starting point. Slide your fingers along the tape to press it down the panels and smooth out the fold. Make sure to flatten the overlap on the corners with your fingers, this will allow easy panel installation to the frame.


It should look something like this. Repeat for every panel.




The Front (clear) and Rear (with fan hole) panels have notched corners. Trim the foam tape to clear the notches.






STEP 3: Assemble the frame starting from the rear.


You will need a perfectly flat table or surface. This will help square out the frame.


The easiest way to assemble the frame is to start from the rear panel. You will need 4 short aluminum T-slots, 4 3-way corner brackets (with lock screws installed), rear Polycarbonate panel (with fan hole) and the fan cover with screws.


Attach 2 short T-slots together using the 3 way corner bracket as shown. Lightly tighten the 2 lock screws. 



Attach another 3 way bracket to one of the open ends of the T-Slot and screw in the 3rd T-slot. 





On the 4th T-slot attach a 3-way bracket on both ends. Grab your rear panel with the fan hole and slide it in the partially assembled frame. At this point you need to decide where do you want to have the fan hole to end up when the box is assembled. On the picture below it will end up on the top left corner. Flip the panel and re-insert if you want it to end up in the top right corner. If you will be using a fan like the Thermostatic fan control option with meter, you want the fan hole to be located where your hinge will be placed (since the meter in attached to the door near the hinge). At any rate you can easily dis-assemble the rear panel once the box is fully assembled.



Here is the rear panel fully assembled. The rear panel was eventually flipped and reinserted to end up on the top right corner.



Install the fan cover if you don't intend to install a fan, it would be a bit difficult to reach it once fully assembled. If you are using a fan hold off installing it until the last side panel is placed as we need the rear bottom of the box to stay flat during assembly.


 

Do a final check on the frame and make sure it is square. A flat table is a great help here.


STEP 4: Assemble the front frame. 


The Front frame is assembled the same way as the rear frame, except that the front frame has no installed panel. This is the opening of the box. Follow steps on Step 3 to assemble the front frame. You will need 4pcs short T-slots and 4pcs 3 Way Corner brackets.


Set aside once assembled.




STEP 5: Assemble the Side frame.


Flip the rear frame assembly so the prongs of the 3 way bracket are facing up. You will need 4 long T-slots. Insert the long T-slots on to the open prongs of the 3 Way brackets. Tighten the locking nuts.







STEP 6: Install remaining panels.


The panels of the Tarca Safety Enclosure can be moved around and flipped to allow flexibly and accommodate different printer configurations. 

The bottom panel has 2 square holes for USB cable and other non-power wiring and a larger hole for AC and large current wiring. Typically the large hole is positioned toward the rear and will vary where your printers power supply is located (either left or right). On this build the Larger opening will located on the right-rear corner.


The panel with the filament slot opening can be positioned to the left, right or top depending on your printer's configuration. The opening is not not centered and is skewed more to one side, typically you want this opening more towards the rear.


When sliding in the panels you may need to slightly wiggle it in. This is due to the need to compress the foam tape and slight variances and expansion of the panels.


Install all 4 panels.




STEP 7: Install previously assembled front frame.


Once all the side panels are installed, slightly compress the side frames to press on to the panels. Position the front frame assembly so that the prongs of the 3 way bracket slides into the T-slot's grooves. You may need to nudge it into submission as you compress the foam tape. Do not push one corner all the way down as the other corners will be at an angle and will be difficult to slide in. Gently push down the front frame assembly a little at a time moving from one corner to the other until flushed. Tighten the locking screws of the 3 way corner bracket.





At this point you can go back and check that all locking screws are properly tightened.



STEP 8: Install foam tape on the front panel.


The foam on the front panel lip is used to dampen the door when closing. It also improves sealing to help keep the noise in and minimize air leaks.


You will need the smaller roll of foam tape. Lay the tape on the front lip on the front frame. As much as possible to not stretch the tape during application. Do not overlay tape layers.




STEP 9: Install 2 way corner brackets on front frame.


These brackets provide rigidity to the front frame. You will need 4x 2 way corner brackets, 8x Hex screw and 8x T-nuts. Also need the larger Allen wrench.


Insert the screws in to the 2 way brackets and screw in the T nuts as shown.



Install these brackets on the inner corners of the front frame. Make sure the T-nuts will grab the T-slot before fully tightening, otherwise loosen it a bit and re-tighten. 





STEP 10: Install footing.


Flip the box so that the bottom side is on top. You will need 4 plastic footing brackets, 8 screws that were packaged together with the plastic footing, 8 T-Slot nuts or popularly known as hammer nuts.


Insert the screws in to the mounting holes of the plastic footing and screw in the Tslot nuts as shown on the illustration. Do this for all four footing brackets.



Insert the t-slot nut along the bottom groove of the box as shown. You can set the distance you want from the corner side, a good starting point would be about 2.5 inches. Tighten the screw with the larger Allen wrench until the T nut grabs the t-Slot. If the T nut was not able to then loosen it a bit then re-tighten. Make sure to have the side of the footing flush to the outer  side of the T-Slot, During installation of the door we need to have the sides flushed to the table.


Alternatively, you can mount the footing on any part of the bottom frame slots, say one on each side. Just make sure that they provide stability to the enclosure.




STEP 11: Install bottom support bracket.


The bottom bracket provides support to the printer on the bottom panel. It also add rigidity to the frame. You will need the silver Aluminum T-Slot, 2x T-plates, 8x Hex screws and 8x T-nuts.


Install the T-nuts on to the T-plates as shown.




Lay the T-slot length wise on the bottom of the box as shown and insert the T-Plates. Center the T-slot before tightening the Hex nuts.


The illustration shown is for the Small size Tarca Enclosure, for the Medium size the support bracket installs sideways.




STEP 11: Assemble the door frame.


The door frame assembly is similar to the front and rear frames except it uses the 2-way brackets. You will need 4x short T-Slots that were bundled and labeled "Door Frame", 4x 2-way corner brackets, the contents of door hardware bag, 8x hex screws and the clear polycarbonate panel.


Start by joining 2 of the Aluminum T-Slots using the 2-way corner bracket. The center hole on these door frame T-slots are tapped and will accept the hex screws. Lay both T-slots on a flat surface and screw in the 2-way corner bracket as shown.




Connect the 3rd Aluminum T-Slot. Make sure that the edges are flushed while tightening down the screw. Unlike the 3-way corner brackets the 2-brackets used here does not have prongs to act as guide so manually make sure that all sides are flush and square.


Insert the clear door polycarbonate panel on to the frame. Similar to earlier frame assemblies you may need to wiggle the panel in to compress the foam tape.


Attach the 2 remaining corner brackets to the last T-Slot. Attach this to complete the door frame assembly. You may need a little bit of push to line up the Hex screws, Before tightening make sure to lay on a flat surface so everything is flush and squared.




Once completed you can loosen the screws and re-tighten them one at a time to release any mis-alignment. It is important that the door frame is all flush and squared, otherwise it will not close flat with the main frame.




STEP 11: Installing the door hinge.


The Kit comes with removable doors, this is possible through the use of detachable hinges. These hinges are not interchangeable so both left and right versions are included.


Start by deciding where to place the hinge, most right handed individuals would prefer the hinge to be on the right and left handed on the left. You will need the 2x hinges, 8x Hex screws and 8x T-nuts and possibly some tape to temporarily secure the door (masking tape preferred).


On this guide the hinges were installed on the right. Install the hex screws and t-nut on the hinges.



Rotate the enclosure so that the right side is pointing up. Make sure that when you installed the footing brackets they are flush to the side of the frame, this will allow ease of aligning the door frame  Place the door frame in front of the enclosure and aligning all 4 sides. You can apply tape on the top and bottom part of the frames to hold it place, although it was not required while doing this build.





Place the hinge pair on the T-slot groove, the part with the pin goes to the enclosure side and the matching part goes to the door frame. Set the part with the pin some distance from the edge of the frame, say 3 inches and lightly tighten the screws so part is secure (make sure door frame is flush and square with the enclosure when doing so).  Now slide in the matching part of the hinge, lightly press the 2 parts together to make sure there is no gap then tighten the remaining screws.






At this point you may unwind and re-tighten the screws to fix any alignment issues. Make sure door frame is still flush and squared with the enclosure at this point.


Use the same procedure to install the other hinge.



Set the enclosure on its feet and check that the door swings and closes freely without pinching too much on the foam. It should close flat or with just a very small gap even without the magnetic latch. If this is not the case and you can re-adjust the hinges to get better alignment. You can do this by placing the enclosure on it side with the hinges facing up. Loosen the screws on the hinge part with the pins so they can move freely to re-align itself. This would allow a slight increase in the gap between the door and the enclosure on the hinge side. Check alignment again. 




STEP 11: Installing the door handle and magnetic latch.


To install the door handle you would need to decide where to place it. The most common would be at the center but you can also place it at the corner or on top. It is recommended to place it at the center and have the magnetic latch at the center as well. This would allow even and smooth opening of the door, placing the handle and magnetic latch on the top corner would give the frame a slight twist when opening.


Install 2x screws that came with the door hardware *these are slightly longer screws than the other Hex screws) and 2x T-Nuts on the metal door handle. Insert into the T-Slot groove and center then tighten. 



To install the magnetic latch you will need the bag that contains all the latch hardware, it uses a different size of screw and T-Nuts. Insert the screw and t-nuts on the magnetic latch holes as shown.



Remove the tape backing of the metal plate and place the plastic spacer over it. Give it a slight pressure to improve adhesion.



It is recommended to position the magnetic latch at the mid point of the T-slot frame to allow the door frame to sit nicely with the enclosure when latched. Placing the magnetic latch on the top corner (say if you have the door handle in that location) might allow a slight gap on the opposite corner when latched. 


Install the magnetic latch along the inside grooves of the front frame. Position it so that the latch body is flushed with the foam lining as shown. Tighten the screws with a Philips screw driver.




To install the metal plate on the door, remove the adhesive backing of the spacer (maroon color). You may need a sharp edged object to grab the backing as the tape is slightly gooey. Place the metal plate on to the magnetic latch and center it, Swing the door slightly ajar to check alignment and make sure the adhesive on the metal plate will not hit the foam tape that's wrapped around the clear polycarbonate panel, adjust if necessary. Close the door fully and slightly push the polycarbonate panel so the metal plate sticks to it. Open the door and the metal plate should stick to the clear panel perfectly aligned. Give it slight pressure to improve adhesion.





If you find that the magnetic latch it a bit too latchy for your taste you can place a layer of tape (preferably masking tape) over the metal plate. 




STEP 12: Install Filament holder bracket.


The filament holder bracket allows you to mount the filament spool holder that came with your printer or other custom printed spool holders. This is positioned slightly behind the filament opening slot of the enclosure. Several spool holders can be mounted on the bracket.


You will need the last remaining long aluminum T-Slot, 2x corner brackets, 4x Hex screws and 4x T-Nuts.


Insert the Hex screws and T-nuts on to the corner brackets. Find a good location for the Filament holder bracket and install the corner brackets to hold the T-slot in place. Reposition if necessary to ensure unobstructed flow of the filament.




The picture below shows a spool holder for a Creality Ender 3 mounted on the bracket. For the Prusa i3 spool holder you would need to print an adapter that's available for download.